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12 Bordeaux wines made by Vignerons for immediate drinking

Castle of Massereau Vin de France Cuvée Tradition 2018, 13.5 percent, $27

Château Massereau makes both sweet wines and dry reds like this one. This cuvée is generally made up of 60 percent Merlot, 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest divided between Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Massereau used to be called Bordeaux Supérieur, but withdrew its wines from the appellation after getting in trouble with stuffy bureaucracy. She now bottles the dry wines as Vin de France. Regardless, it is pointed, precise, tasty and refreshing, structured but not tannic, with a light herbal note. (Camille Rivière/Fruit of the Vines)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Chateau Auney l’Hermitage Graves Blanc Cuvée Cana 2018, 13 percent, $30

The virtues of dry white Bordeaux are hard to sell, possibly because good specimens from the best areas, Pessac-Léognan and Graves, are expensive and not easy to find. I love white Bordeaux and I love the juiciness of the Semillon grape. (Cuvée Cana is 50 percent Sémillon, 35 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 10 percent Sauvignon Gris, and 5 percent Muscadelle, an unusual blend in a region where Sémillon and the other varietals were losing ground to Sauvignon Blanc have.) Like Chenin Blanc, Sémillon has a floral note, honeyed flavor, a mineral note, and a luscious texture that makes me want to roll it around in my mouth because it feels so good. Auney l’Hermitage cultivates its vineyard organically on gravel sand and clay. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

House Blanche Montagne-St-Émilion 2018, 14.5 percent, $42

The Despagne family cultivate their Montagne-St.-Émilion vineyard biodynamically and produce their wines with minimal effort. Depending on the vintage, this wine can contain between 20 and 50 percent Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot. The 2018 is dense and concentrated, with complex aromas of dark fruit, liquorice and spice. It is structured and should mature for years. (Selection Massale)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc 2017, 12.5 percent, $45

Clos du Jaugueyron is one of my favorite small Bordeaux wineries. Its owner, Michel Théron, farms around 17 hectares biodynamically and his wines are deliciously pure. The Haut-Médoc consists of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 33 percent Merlot and 7 percent Petit Verdot. It’s lightly tannic, with floral, stony flavors and a pleasure to drink. Jaugueyron also makes an excellent Margaux. (Selection Massale)

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/03/31/dining/drinks/bordeaux-wines-vignerons.html 12 Bordeaux wines made by Vignerons for immediate drinking

Luke Plunkett

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