Good Morning. “Every court exists on their own continuum,” Bryan Washington wrote in the New York Times Magazine this week, “but they are bound together by our personal experience. You eat a meal that blows your mind. This dish is making its way into your life. In a year the garlic will become heavier. The next, a little lighter on the char. Or maybe you prefer more chili, more lime, more spiciness until a meal’s story interlocks with your own.”
Bryan used this observation to kickstart a discussion of a dish he first ate in a tiny Tokyo bar and has since brought into his home and life: Kakuni (above), stir-fried pork belly cooked in sake, soy sauce and sugar takes on a kind of velvety smoothness, simple and delicious. “The court is insanely comforting,” Bryan wrote. “It’s just as likely to be on a bar’s menu as it is on someone’s nightly rotation at home.”
Wild comforting is about what we need right now. So Kakuni is on my menu tonight.
As for the rest of the week…
I love the saltiness of the cheese versus the bitterness of the veggies and lemony dressing in this escarole salad with smoky halloumi croutons, and I love the dish even more when I sprinkle pomegranate seeds on top.
It’s going to be warm and muggy where I’m staying soon, and before that I want to have one last Mushroom Bourguignon. Use as many different types of mushrooms as possible – and absolutely maitakes for their meaty texture – and caramelize them deeply for extra flavor, please.
Spicy mustard and honey glazed chicken midweek? It uses Asian hot mustard powder to infuse a tangy-sweet varnish of honey, soy sauce, and garlic that drips into the bed of potatoes and carrots beneath the meat — a classic sheet metal dish.
These sloppy joes with smoky white beans and beef are a revelation: a childhood favorite made with far less meat and no less flavor. “I loved this recipe,” one subscriber wrote under the recipe. “It’s nice and sloppy and super flavorful.”
And then on Friday you could try this amazing maiale al latte, milk braised pork prepared in an Instant Pot, maybe with a carrot cake for dessert? What a great way to end the week!
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Well, you’d have to travel a long way over rough terrain to do anything with French toast or Peruvian chicken, but I enjoyed Tony Scherman’s profile of guitarist and singer Molly Tuttle on The Times. Here she reports live on Neil Young’s “Helpless”.
I love David Reamer’s Alaska history column for the Anchorage Daily News. Here he is on Martha Greer, “Mother White,” an early and important figure in the city’s development.
Peter Scalpello has a new poem in Granta, “Blue Room, Fake Blue Veins”.
Finally, read Gary Garay in the Los Angeles Times Image magazine about the legacy of Jonny Chingas, the Los Angeles musician Gustavo Arellano once dubbed “the blowfly of Chicano rap.” And I’ll be back on Monday.
https://www.nytimes.com/2022/04/03/dining/what-to-cook-this-week.html What should I cook this week